By the Avantelle authentication team · Last updated: July 2026
The So Kate and the Pigalle are the two pointed-toe pumps that define the Christian Louboutin silhouette. They look almost identical on a shelf. On your foot, they are different shoes, and the wrong choice costs you either comfort or the look you actually wanted. We'll walk you through the real differences, the sizing detail nobody else prints, and our live pre-owned prices so you can compare before you spend.
Quick Answer: So Kate vs Pigalle
The So Kate is the sharper, more dramatic pump, built around a 120mm stiletto named after Kate Moss. The Pigalle (including Pigalle Follies) is the more versatile choice because it comes in 85mm, 100mm and 120mm, with a marginally less severe toe box. If you want the most photographed red-sole silhouette, choose the former. If you want a pump you will actually wear for a full evening, choose the latter at 85mm or 100mm.
- Best for impact: So Kate 120mm, patent leather, the sharpest line in the range
- Best for wear time: Pigalle Follies 85mm or 100mm, noticeably more forgiving
- Sizing reality: The 120mm runs narrow; most collectors size up half a size from their UK size
- Pre-owned advantage: Authenticated CL pumps from £79 at Avantelle vs £645+ at boutique
What Is the Difference Between So Kate and Pigalle?
The core difference is pitch and severity. The So Kate is a 120mm pump with a longer, sharper toe box and a steeper arch. It was designed as a statement shoe, and everything about the proportions serves that purpose. The Pigalle (and its updated sibling, Follies) uses a slightly softer line through the toe and is available in lower heights, which changes how much pressure sits on the ball of your foot.
Both are pointed-toe stilettos from the same Parisian maison, founded in 1991. Both carry the signature lacquered red sole. The difference is what each shoe asks of you when you walk in it.
In practical terms:
- The 120mm model has a longer toe box that tapers to a finer point, pushing your foot further forward.
- The Pigalle family offers a slightly more rounded (though still pointed) toe and is widely available in 85mm, 100mm and 120mm. The Follies version introduced a thinner stiletto while keeping the same silhouette.
- The 120mm tends to feel narrower across the forefoot. The other style often gives a fraction more room, especially at lower heights.
For a full breakdown of every height in the range, see our complete height guide.
How Do the Heights and Specs Compare?
The table below sets out the key specifications side by side. These are the numbers that actually affect fit and wear time.
| Spec | So Kate | Pigalle / Follies |
|---|---|---|
| Signature height | 120mm (4.7 in) | 85mm, 100mm or 120mm |
| Toe box | Longer, sharper, narrower | Pointed but marginally more forgiving |
| Stiletto thickness | Slim | Original: slightly thicker; Follies: slim |
| Forward pitch | Steep, high ball-of-foot pressure | Less at 85mm/100mm; similar at 120mm |
| Common materials | Patent calf, nappa, suede | Patent calf, nappa, suede, mesh (Strass) |
| Wear scenario | Events, photography, short stints | Dinners, weddings, work, longer wear |
| Boutique price (UK) | From £645 | From £645 |
| Pre-owned at Avantelle | From £79 | From £79 |
Which Is More Comfortable: So Kate or Pigalle?
Neither is a comfort shoe, but the Pigalle at 85mm or 100mm is noticeably easier to wear for longer periods. The reason is geometry: a lower stiletto reduces the forward pitch, so less of your body weight concentrates at the ball of your foot. At 120mm, both models push you forward sharply, and the comfort gap narrows.
The 120mm model's narrower toe box is the other factor. If you have a slightly wider forefoot or a longer second toe, it is more likely to pinch within the first hour. The Pigalle, depending on version and material, often gives a fraction more breathing room through the toe without losing the pointed silhouette.
The 120mm is a car-to-venue shoe. That is not a criticism. It is an accurate description of what a steep stiletto with a razor toe box asks of you.
For practical tips on managing high stilettos, see our guide on how to walk in 120mm pumps. For a broader look at comfort across the range, read are Louboutins comfortable?
How Should You Size These Two Models?
Christian Louboutin sizing runs small compared with most UK high-street brands. Both the So Kate and the Pigalle follow this pattern, but the 120mm is the more aggressive fit of the two.
- The 120mm: Most collectors size up by half a size from their standard UK size. If you normally wear a UK 5, try a UK 5.5 (EU 38.5). Patent leather is less forgiving than nappa or suede, so material matters.
- The Pigalle family: The same half-size-up rule applies for most people, though some find the 85mm true to their usual CL size. Try before you commit if possible.
Pre-owned pairs can feel marginally easier at first wear because the leather has already begun to soften. This is not a reason to size differently, but it is worth knowing when you compare a brand-new boutique pair with an authenticated pre-owned pair.
For model-by-model sizing detail, see our full UK sizing guide.
How Much Do They Cost New vs Pre-Owned?
At boutique, both the 120mm and the Pigalle 100mm retail from £645 in patent leather. Limited editions and exotic materials can push well above £1,000.
Our live pre-owned prices vs boutique
Authenticated CL stilettos currently start from £79 at Avantelle, compared with £645+ new at boutique. That is up to 88% below retail for a pair that has been professionally authenticated and photographed. Every pair ships with our authentication guarantee.
Current examples from our stock:
- Fifi 100 Black Patent: £139 (vs £645+ new)
- Macarena 120 Black Patent: £99 (vs £645+ new)
- Lady Peep 150 Brown Patent: £99 (vs £645+ new)
Which Should You Choose?
Choose the So Kate if the look matters more than the wear time. It is the more photographed silhouette, and at 120mm in black patent or nude, it delivers the most dramatic leg line of any pointed-toe pump in the range. It is the shoe for arrivals, seated dinners and occasions where you will not be on your feet for hours.
Choose the Pigalle if you want a pointed pump you can realistically wear for a full evening. The Follies at 85mm or 100mm keeps the red-sole impact without the severity of a 120mm pitch. It is the more practical first purchase for many collectors.
If you are buying your first pair, the 100mm is often the smarter starting point. You get the silhouette, the red sole and enough comfort to wear them properly. The 120mm can come second, once you know your size and what that height feels like on your foot.
Read more: best CL styles for beginners · the complete So Kate guide · the complete Pigalle guide
Shop the Edit: Authenticated Pairs in Stock Now
Every pair below is authenticated, photographed and ready to ship. Prices are live.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the So Kate higher than the Pigalle?
The So Kate is most commonly sold as a 120mm pump. The Pigalle is available in 85mm, 100mm and 120mm. So the former is higher than a Pigalle 85 or 100, but the same height as the 120mm version.
Do Louboutins run true to size?
They generally run small compared with UK high-street sizing. Most collectors size up by half a size. The So Kate in particular runs narrow across the toe box, so sizing up is especially important for that model. See our UK sizing guide for model-by-model advice.
Can you walk in 120mm stilettos all day?
Realistically, no. A 120mm pitch creates significant forward pressure, and the narrow toe box adds strain at the front of the foot. The So Kate is designed for impact, not endurance. For longer wear, consider the Pigalle at 85mm or 100mm, or look at the Kate 85 or Kate 100.
What is the difference between Pigalle and Pigalle Follies?
The Follies is an updated version. The main structural difference is the stiletto thickness: the Follies has a noticeably thinner, sleeker post than the original, giving it a more refined profile. The toe shape and overall silhouette remain very similar.
Are pre-owned pairs worth buying?
Authenticated pre-owned CL stilettos can offer significant savings. At Avantelle, pre-owned pairs start from £79 compared with £645+ at boutique. They have also had their initial break-in, so the leather can feel slightly less stiff. Every pair we sell is professionally authenticated. Read our full guide: are pre-owned pairs worth it?
Where can I buy these styles in the UK?
New pairs are available at CL boutiques, Harrods, Selfridges and other authorised retailers from £645. Authenticated pre-owned pairs are available at Avantelle from £79, with free UK shipping and an authentication guarantee.
These two silhouettes are not interchangeable. One is built for the moment you walk in. The other is built for the hours that follow. Know which you need, size carefully, and let the red sole do what it does.
Start here: Shop So Kate · Shop Pigalle · Browse all styles
