Walking into a boutique for the first time is a lot. Rows of red soles, heights running from 70 mm to 150 mm, and not a single pair under £500. The question most first-time buyers ask us is straightforward: which ones are actually comfortable? The answer comes down to three things, and none of them is how tough your feet are.
The Kate 85 is the model most first-time buyers should start with: an 85 mm pitch (roughly 3.3 inches), a classic pointed toe, and enough comfort to last a full evening. If you want more drama without the pain, a platform like the Very Privé 120 sits at 120 mm on paper but the platform lowers the effective pitch noticeably, which changes everything. Pre-owned pairs at Avantelle start from £79.99, a fraction of the boutique price, so your first pair doesn't have to be a £720 leap of faith.
What Makes One Pair More Comfortable Than Another?
Three things determine whether you'll love or dread a pair by hour three: the height, any platform (or lack of one), and the shape of the toe box.
Height is the obvious factor. An 85 mm pitch is moderate enough for most people to manage comfortably for several hours. Jump to 120 mm with no platform and the angle gets steep, fast. The So Kate 120, for instance, is a beautiful shoe, but we'd never recommend it as a first pair. Your calf muscles, ball of foot, and patience will all thank you for starting lower.
A platform changes the maths entirely. A 120 mm stiletto with a platform gives you a meaningfully lower effective drop. That's why the Very Privé 120 feels noticeably easier on the foot than a flat-soled shoe at the same height. If height matters to you, platforms are the route in.
Toe-box shape is the factor most people overlook. A sharply pointed toe (the So Kate, the Hot Chick) compresses your toes from the first step. A more open or d'Orsay cut, like the Iriza, gives your foot room and airflow. For a first pair, a moderate point like the Kate is the sweet spot: recognisably the house's signature without the squeeze.
The 85 mm rule: if you're unsure about height, 85 mm is the sweet spot for your first pair. Elegant enough to carry the red sole well, low enough to wear for a full evening.
Which Models Are Best for Beginners?
We authenticate and handle these shoes every day, so we see which styles first-time buyers come back to and which they quietly move on from. Here are the ones we'd steer you towards.
The Kate 85
The Kate is the house's signature pointed-toe pump, and the 85 mm version is as close to a universal starting recommendation as we'll give. At 85 mm (about 3.3 inches), it's high enough to look elegant but low enough to walk in properly. The toe is pointed but not punishingly narrow, and the shoe comes in practically every colour and finish the brand makes: black patent, nude nappa, metallic, glitter. If you're buying one pair to start, this is it.
A Kate 85 retails for around £720 at a boutique. Pre-owned, you'll find authenticated pairs for considerably less, and you're not gambling hundreds of pounds on a shape you might not love. Our full sizing guide covers the Kate in detail, but the short version: go half a UK size up in pointed styles.
The Iriza 100
If you like the idea of a slightly higher pitch but want more breathing room, the Iriza is worth a look. It's a 100 mm d'Orsay pump, meaning the sides are cut away, which gives your foot more space and airflow than a closed pump. The 100 mm height sits in a comfortable middle ground, and the Iriza tends to run slightly more true to size because the open design doesn't compress the same way.
The Miss Z 100
The Miss Z is one of the current-season pointed-toe pumps in the range, sitting at 100 mm. It shares the clean, classic proportions of the Kate family but with a slightly updated topline. If you're browsing the boutique today, this is one of the first models you'll be shown, and for good reason: it's a comfortable modern pump that reads as unmistakably the house's work.
The Very Privé 120
The Very Privé is where the platform advantage comes in. On paper it's 120 mm, which sounds intimidating, but the platform lowers the effective pitch enough that it feels closer to a 100 mm shoe than a 120 mm one. Add the peep-toe opening, which relieves pressure on the longest toes, and you've got one of the more forgiving shoes at this height.
We currently have the Very Privé 120 in red patent at £149.99, against a boutique price north of £700. That's a meaningful saving on a shoe that works just as well on a first outing as a tenth.
Are Platform Styles More Comfortable?
Generally, yes. A platform reduces the angle between your back foot and the ball, which is the angle that determines how much pressure lands on your toes. A 150 mm Lady Peep with a roughly 40 mm platform has an effective pitch of around 110 mm. That's still steep, but measurably less punishing than a 120 mm pump with no platform at all.
The trade-off is stability. A platform adds height to the front of the shoe, which raises your centre of gravity. If you're not used to wearing elevated shoes, a tall platform can feel less secure underfoot than a lower non-platform pump. For beginners, we'd suggest the Very Privé 120 (moderate platform, moderate effective height) over the Lady Peep 150 (tall platform, very tall). Start with the one you can control.
Do These Shoes Run Small?
Most pointed-toe styles from the house run about half a UK size small. The Kate, the So Kate, and the Pigalle all benefit from going up half a size. If you're normally a UK 5, try a UK 5.5. A snug pointed pump only gets more uncomfortable as the evening goes on.
Round-toe styles and platforms tend to run closer to true size. The Very Privé and the Simple Pump are generally fine in your normal size, though we'd always recommend trying them if you can. Our sizing guide has model-by-model recommendations, but the half-size-up rule for pointed toes has served most of our buyers well.
How Much Do They Cost New vs Pre-Owned?
New pairs at a boutique or authorised retailer currently start around £720 for classic pump styles, rising past £800 for platforms and embellished models. Limited editions and crystal-set styles push well past £1,000.
Pre-owned and authenticated pairs are a different proposition. Here's what we have in stock right now:
| Model | Height | Boutique (approx.) | Avantelle Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| Flannel Loubout 150 | 150 mm (ankle boot) | ~£1,095 | £79.99 |
| Very Privé 120 | 120 mm (platform) | ~£780 | £149.99 |
| Lady Peep 150 | 150 mm (platform) | ~£820 | £184.99 |
| Dispo Club | Block style | ~£720 | £249.99 |
| So Kate 120 | 120 mm | ~£720 | £299.99 |
| Adox 85 | 85 mm (ankle boot) | ~£995 | £399 |
A first pair through a pre-owned specialist lets you try the silhouette and fit at a fraction of boutique pricing, which takes the pressure off. If you discover that 85 mm is your sweet spot, you can always buy new later with confidence. We authenticate every pair that passes through us, so you're not gambling on condition or provenance. If you're wondering whether pre-owned is the right route, we've covered that question in detail.
Styles You'll Grow Into (But Shouldn't Start With)
We'd be doing you a disservice if we didn't mention the shoes that aren't right for day one. The So Kate 120 is one of the most recognisable pumps the house has ever produced: 120 mm, no platform, ultra-pointed. It's a stunning shoe. But the steep pitch and narrow toe box make it genuinely demanding, and even experienced wearers find it a challenge for more than a couple of hours.
If the So Kate is your dream, start with the Kate 85. Get used to the proportions and the last, then step up when you're ready.
The Hot Chick 100 and 130 are similarly narrow. And while the Pigalle 120 (now largely succeeded by the So Kate) has a devoted following, it shares the same steep geometry. These are shoes for people who already know their size and have the muscle memory to match. They're not where you start.
If high shoes aren't quite your thing yet, the house also makes excellent mules and ballet flats that carry the red sole without the height. Both are worth exploring if you want to start even more gently.
Shop the Edit
Authenticated pre-owned Christian Louboutin pairs, in stock now and ready to ship from the UK.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are Christian Louboutin shoes comfortable for long wear?
It depends on the model and height. Lower styles like the Kate 85 (85 mm) and platforms like the Very Privé 120 (the platform lowers the effective pitch) are comfortable enough for a full evening. Higher, non-platform styles like the So Kate 120 are designed for shorter wear. Height and platform are the biggest comfort factors.
What are the most comfortable models in the range?
Among the pumps, the Kate 85 and the Iriza 100 are the styles we'd point most beginners towards. The Kate 85 combines the classic pointed silhouette with a genuinely manageable 85 mm pitch, and the Iriza's d'Orsay cut gives your foot more room. For maximum height with minimum pain, the Very Privé 120 platform is hard to beat.
Why are Christian Louboutin shoes so expensive?
The brand's shoes are made in European workshops using premium leathers, suedes, and specialty materials, with extensive hand-finishing. The house's positioning as a luxury maison, combined with the iconic red sole (trademarked across much of the world), supports the price point. A standard pump retails around £720; pre-owned pairs at Avantelle start from £79.99.
Do Christian Louboutin shoes run small?
Most pointed-toe styles run about half a UK size small. We'd recommend going up half a size in the Kate, So Kate, and Pigalle families. Round-toe and platform styles like the Very Privé tend to run closer to true size. Our sizing guide has model-by-model recommendations.
What is 85 mm in inches?
85 mm is approximately 3.3 inches. This is the height of the Kate 85, one of the most popular day-to-evening pumps in the range and a common starting point for first-time buyers.
Where can I buy pre-owned Christian Louboutin shoes in the UK?
Avantelle specialises in authenticated pre-owned pairs, shipped from the UK. Every pair is inspected and authenticated before listing. Browse our full collection.
